Well, so far Madrid has not let me down. My first full day back was an extravaganza of sunlight, blue sky, temperatures in the low to mid-50s F. The kind of day that gets people shedding their cool weather gear, pouring out into the streets to soak up the light, the mild air.
I had lunch in a vegetarian restaurant around the corner from here, a place with good food but little in the way of windows and therefore light from the outside world. When I emerged from there the day was in full flower, and you could see its effect on the people passing by. It's hard to maintain a dark frame of mind or sour expression when the world around one insists on partying like that. Glorious sunlight, the kind that falls between the buildings into the narrow streets like a golden mist. Some folks had put their caged songbirds – canaries are exceedingly popular here – out on their balcones, and those sweet feathered buggers sang their hearts out.
I woke up late after a night that began the process of recouping sleep, something that had been a bit skimpy over the last month or so. Yesterday, after my arrival, I had an enormous lunch at a neighborhood restaurant, which included major quantities of liquids, so I was out of bed to empty the ballast at regular intervals during the nighttime hours. At one point, I woke up and rolled over, not realizing I'd moved to the edge of the bed in my sleep. So that before my teensy brain could register the change in my situation I'd rolled right off the mattress to the bedroom floor, the managed that particular move in this lifetime. It's a nice floor -- a parquet job, finished with a thick, nicely glossy finish -- but not the destination I'd intended for myself at 4 or so a.m. That had me cracking up for a few minutes. I am so glad this piso isn't fitted out with videocams.
When I finally opened my eyes to find the growing light of the day seeping tentatively in the bedroom windows, the hour was 8:20, not giving me a lot of time to shower/shave/etc. then drag my patoot to the language school to begin a few weeks worth of classes and get my flabby Spanish back into something approximating decent condition. Somehow I zipped through the morning routine, ‘cause I walked into the building that houses the school just as a nearby clock was tolling 9 a.m., even managing to collar a fine cup of espresso at a café near the school. (Real coffee! Real, full-bodied, aromatic, delicious European coffee! I pause here to give the Universe groveling thanks for simple but substantial pleasures.)
I hadn't made any prior arrangements with the school before showing up there this morning, so the three brothers who run the place met me with genuine smiling surprise, seeming sincerely glad to see my humble, half-awake self. Which felt just fine until my butt was planted in a classroom chair and I'd discovered that those three characters had once again condemned me to weeks of classes centered around the infinite uses and varieties of the subjunctive verb form, a form of slow torture that can wear one slowly down, resulting in a progressively confused, passive state in which the student hands over wads of euros to an increasingly prosperous school and devotes an inordinately large part of one's day trying to master a verb form that likely doesn't exist except as a mode of torture employed to break the will and spirit of unwitting furriners. [See journal entry for 23 July, 2002.] On top of which I found myself the only male in a group of four very young 20-something German women and a young, mighty serious 20-something Polish woman, along with la profesora, a smart, charming 20-something woman named Patricia, a few years older than the other females. Not that being the only male in a group of babes is a problem. On the contrary. It's more that the other students seemed at times to consider me an ancient, gray-haired fart – me being somewhere in the neighborhood of twice their age – a doddering old codger whose faculties are waning, particularly the higher processing abilities. If I'd been fully awake that might not have been a problem either. But since I was functioning in a bit of a post-travel, sleep-deprived haze, I think I reinforced the impression of limited mental capacities a few unfortunate times, something I will correct in the coming days as I catch up on shuteye and reassert control over this doddering, weakened mind and body.
During the course of the day -- school in the morning, lunch, a trip to the gym during the afternoon -- it became apparent that the city, at least today, didn't seem to be its normal crowded self. I saw far fewer people than normal using the Metro during my trips in various directions, cafes and restaurants were less crowded. Even here in this barrio, the street life has been quieter, more sedate, from the number of folks wandering around to the noise level, to the quantity of posters on the wall across the street ("Alice Cooper -- the Descent Into Dragonland Tour -- el 12 de Diciembre"; "HAY QUE VOLVER A EMPERZAR II – Artistas Unidas En Defensa De Las Mujeres Maltratadas – CD YA A La VENTA" [ONE HAS TO RETURN TO BEGIN II -- Artists United In Defense of Battered Women -- CD Now On Sale]; "PEARL JAM – Riot Act – Nuevo Disco"; "Los Secretos – Nuevo Disco: Solo Para Escuchar – 11 Nuevas Canciones – A La Venta Desde El 18 De Noviember" [The Secrets -- New CD: ‘Only For Listening' -- 11 New Songs -- On Sale from November 18th]). Life here right now, for some reason, is being conducted at a lower, more relaxed pitch. There's a long weekend coming up, I think, this one or the next one. That could conceivably have something to do with it. But I can't say for sure. I'll have to bother one of my Spanish acquaintances about it and see what they say.
Meanwhile, I'm enjoying the slightly mellow intro to my return.
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A quick note: you may have noticed this entry has been posted twice. It's due to some quirk in Blogger, possibly having to do with their Department of Redundancy Department. It's a bit goofy in that if I make changes to one of the duplicate entries the changes do not show up in its, er, twin. If I try to delete the duplicate entry, however, both entries disappear. Go figure.
I have hopes that this will be addressed and fixed soon.